Where to Stay, Eat, and Apres-Ski in Chamonix

In January, my husband and I headed to Chamonix, France for a little skiing (well, he skied – I just lounged fire-side at the hotel, reading, drinking hot cocoa, and enjoying some “me time”). Chamonix is a resort area in the French Alps and home to the tallest mountain in western Europe: Mont Blanc. The region is known for its excellent skiing, and fun fact, it was the host city of the 1927 Winter Olympic Games.  

We spent 3 beautiful days in the ski-town eating, drinking, and being merry. We arrived into town around 8pm and were immediately struck by how charming the city was. There were street vendors selling warm mulled wine, groups of friends and families (post-skiing) enjoying outdoor dining under warm heating lamps, and beautiful buildings lit up to highlight the stunning alpine architecture. 

HOW TO GET THERE

We flew into Geneva, which was the closest airport and hired Mountain Drop-offs for round-trip transportation to and from the airport (about 100 euro/pp round-trip with the Flexi Saver rate; the ride takes about 1 hour each way, though it took longer on our arrival day due to farmer protests that led to road blockages). It was shared with others arriving around the same time (about 6 of us in total) and we were dropped off and picked up directly from our hotel.  

There are other transportation options offered as well including private transportation, which you can find here (once you input your arrival and departure information).  

WHERE TO STAY

Since we booked this trip rather last minute, the hotel options were limited. We ended up staying at The Chalet Whymper – a charming & very cozy B&B-style hotel, located in the heart of the town center (with tons of cute shops, and restaurants nearby). It offers massage services and sauna room too. I spent most of my days relaxing in the lounge area by the roaring fire soaking in the gorgeous views of the surrounding mountains and charming Alpine homes. The staff was incredibly kind, especially in helping my husband navigate the ski and snowboarding rental process (more on that below). 

If you’re looking for something more high-end, these hotels are great options looking at their Google reviews: 

• Hotel Mont Blanc | Hotel class: 5 stars 
• Hotel Hameau | Hotel class: 5 stars 
• Grand Hotel des Alpes | Hotel class: 5 stars  

Pro tip: Book as soon as you can; hotels fill up quickly! I know that may be difficult as you might be tempted to time your visit with optimal ski conditions. Do some research beforehand (including reaching out to your prospective hotel about the best time to visit). 

WHERE TO RENT GEAR & GET MOUNTAIN PASSES

Rentals 

My husband opted not to bring his ski gear with him (outside of a jacket, helmet, goggles, etc.). So when we arrived, he was in need of renting equipment. Our hotel had a relationship with Skimium Sanglard Sports and offered a 15% off discount on gear rentals. 

He opted to snowboard one day and ski the other; the staff was great at getting him outfitted with everything he needed. In total, two-day gear rental was only 75 euros, which was a steal. 

Pro-tip: Ask your hotel what partnerships they have with nearby equipment stores as they may offer a special promotion reserved for guests. 

Mountain Passes & Weather Conditions 

Interestingly, while we were in Chamonix, we were floored by the number of American tourists there. We later learned that most people were visiting using the Ikon Pass. If you’re an avid skier, it may be a great option for you, particularly if you enjoy visiting different resorts all over the world. At present, 24/25 season passes aren’t yet available but will likely drop around towards late summer or early fall. 

My husband didn’t use the Ikon pass, instead opting for a 2-day pass, which was only 120 euros (purchased at the gear store). Unfortunately, the conditions were sub-par. We visited in late January and the region was hit with rain the week before, leading to icy conditions once we got there.  

There are 5 ski resorts in total in the area: Grand Montets, Les Houches (best for ski in/out resorts), Le Tour/Balme, La Flegere, and Le Brevent. My husband chose to ski at Le Brevent given the recommendation of a crew member at Skimium. I walked with him up to the gondola (it was a quick 7 minute walk from our hotel); prepare to be out of breath going up that hill! We saw many people carrying their equipment going up and down – all in ski boots, which I don’t recommend!  

Pro tip:  

1. While it may be annoying, it may be worth carrying a light knapsack with sneakers you can change in and out of to make the climb up and down more manageable. There are lockers available where you can store your personal belongings. 
2. Definitely pick your hotel staff’s brain or those at the ski store on which mountains to visit (if you’re renting or purchasing equipment) as they’ll have a good pulse on where the best conditions are. 

WHERE TO EAT

We were delighted by the vast number of cuisine options in Chamonix – everything from Thai to Indian to local French dining were all within a short walk of the town center.  

Here’s a look at where to eat and drink in Chamonix: 

Breakfast & Pastries 

A continental style breakfast was included in our stay at Chalet Whymper consisting of eggs, charcuterie meats, cheeses, cereal, yogurt, and fresh fruit. 

Being in France, naturally, we had to pick up at least a few pastries, which we did at Aux Petits Gourmand, a local patisserie with confections that look like works of art. We chose to indulge in macaroons and other chocolate goodies and they did not disappoint! If you’re looking for breakfast treats, this is definitely the spot too. 

Other noteworthy options (with Google ratings): 

• Le Panière | Bread & pastry shop 
• Omeletterie La Poêle | Breakfast café 
• Josephine Restaurant | French bistro  

Lunch

We only ate lunch one day, which was at L’Alt where we had the most fantastic corn chowder with a small open-face baguette of melted cheese and a fresh salad drizzled with a citrus dressing. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and the cappuccino was stand-out. There are tables outside with fire pits but only those directly in front of the restaurant entrance work (the ones on the side, where we sat don’t have fire pits), which was ok since it was warm enough to sit outside. 

Après-Ski 

When the clock struck 3pm, the skiers made their way down the mountains and into town for a little drink to quench their thirst. Après-ski is taken seriously here and there are two avenues you could go down – chill or party-mode. 

We opted for the former, experiencing our first après-ski at Chambre Neuf. It has a divey yet charming bistro feel inside. We waited at least 20-30 minutes to put in our drink order because there was only one bartender working and there was a lively young crowd (mainly of 30-somethings) that queued up. The food I saw others order looked fantastic but I would recommend going closer to 4-5p vs. right when they open because they seem less staffed up then.

Dinner

Our evening meals most nights were a bit of a combination of après-ski and dinner, which we thoroughly enjoyed: 

• Restaurant Le Boccalatte | We ate here our first night in Chamonix. We wandered down the lively streets and came upon this restaurant smack dab in front of Mont Blanc and noticed the bustling restaurant. We sat at a table cozily tucked in the back where we shared a big Ceasar salad and pizza (basic, I know), but it was just what we were craving after a busy travel day. The champagne I had was wonderful too; my husband chose not to drink seeing as he wanted to head out to the mountain early the next day. 

• L’Hydromel | Dinner at this cozy bar-style restaurant was one of our favorite meals. We were craving a good burger and L’Hydromel delivered in spades. We shared a cheeseburger and salad and both were yum (though I could have done without the fried chicken strips in the salad; you may want to ask for that on the side). 

• Tanpopo | On our last night, the weather was particularly cold so we were in the mood for some ramen. We choose Tanpopo, one of the local Japanese restaurants, which was located near our hotel. I was surprised by some of the negative reviews pertaining to the service and demeanor of the owner. Based on our experience, the service was top-notch and the owner couldn’t have been friendlier.
  • We sat at the high-top downstairs and were seated next to a lovely couple from the UK. They were remote working in Chamonix for 3 months so they could take full advantage of ski season. We had the most delightful evening chatting with them and sharing a meal together. It’s moments like that that I absolutely love when traveling – breaking bread with cool people from all over the world. Naturally, we exchanged numbers at the end to keep in touch. 

Pro tip: Tipping at restaurants is encouraged; 10% is the average amount recommended. 

OTHER GOOD BITS TO KNOW

• Language | While French is, of course, the official language of Chamonix, English is as commonly spoken as French throughout Chamonix. 

• Pet-friendly | We noticed that Chamonix is a very dog-friendly city with restaurants allowing patrons to sit outside with their pets at the table. So if you’re traveling with your furry family member, rest assured that they’ll be welcomed where you eat (at least at most places it seems) 

• Shopping | We didn’t do much shopping but there’s one place to absolutely checkout if you’re looking for local treats and delicacies: L’Apage Des Aiguilles. Here, you’ll find an enormous variety of cheeses, cured meats, picked vegetables, and sweet treats too. You’re bound to find something that tickles your fancy! 

Overall, we loved our time in Chamonix – it’s a charming little town that offers adventure for avid winter sport warriors (when the weather conditions are just right) as well as relaxation for those seeking a more rest-filled visit. We’d absolutely like to return again when the weather is warmer and we can enjoy some fun hikes and (finally) indulge in fondue (can’t believe we didn’t have any)! 

Have you been to Chamonix and if so, what recommendations do you have?