Love Food? Then San Sebastián Is the Place For You
A new friend recently asked me, “what do you like to do for fun?” I quickly (and very seriously) answered, “Travel and eat delicious foods.” What can I say? My tastes are rather binary 🤷🏽♀️ – and my most recent adventure to San Sebastián was no exception; it checked off both my ideas of fun. In spades.
I met my closest friend there for a much-needed girls’ trip but that wasn’t my first time to this coastal haven. I first visited in 2023 with J and a group of his childhood friends/SOs to celebrate their 40th birthdays together.
Returning a year later, I still found myself utterly captivated by the city’s charm and foodie delights (my god, the pintxos!😍). Moreover, San Sebastián has this cool Paris-meets-Barcelona vibe as evidenced by its definitive French-inspired architecture coupled with its relaxed coastal feel.
The Urumea River runs right down the city center (separating San Sebastián proper from the hipstery neighborhood, Gros, and family-centric, Egia) with its mouth opening at the Bay of Biscay (a gulf of the Atlantic Ocean that sits along northern Spain as well as western France).
If you love all things Spain, delicious food, and beautiful scenery, then you’ve come to the right place because I am sharing all the things I love and recommend from this jewel box locale (based on both visits), including:
- Where to stay
- How to get around
- Where to eat (start here if you’re a food lover like me!)
- What to do
Ready? Let’s get to it.
Where to Stay
There are a myriad of hotel and Airbnb options in San Sebastián. I’ve done both.
Hotels, in my opinion, win especially if you plan to visit restaurants outside the heart of the city (more on that below).
Hotels
Hotel Catalonia Donosti is where I stayed most recently; it’s a lovely newish hotel located in the heart of the city but away from tourist-laden parts. Highlights include its rooftop pool, incredible views, and overall great service, all of which made for a memorable stay for both my friend and me.
While I have not stayed at either of these hotels below, they’re definitely on my radar for future visits!
- Hotel Maria Cristina | This is, easily, San Sebastián’s most famous hotel, sitting at the top of the Urumea River and boasting spectacular views of the city (not to mention a decidedly romantic interior design). It’s where the who’s who of the entertainment industry stay when in town for the famous San Sebastián International Film Festival. It’s also part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection.
- Vila Soro | This stately boutique hotel is located on the Gros side offering a refined casual feel – easy to do given it dates back to 1898 so is chock full of charming details that have (thankfully) been retained throughout its renovation (like stain glass windows, gorgeous iron staircase, and elegant crown molding throughout).
Airbnb
If Airbnbs are more your jam, we enjoyed our stay above at this great spot, but obviously, there are a myriad of other options available that you can find in the app.
How to Get Around
Taxis & Rideshare
Rideshare services are simply not available in the city; yes, there are taxis but they can often be difficult to come by unless arranged in advance. While our Airbnb host helped us get a taxi once, I quickly learned that staying at a hotel – where staff are better equipped to help – makes for a less stressful trip to San Sebastián. Additionally, I’ve just found that hotels have closer relationships with taxi services and are always happy to help with arrangements.
Generally speaking, using a taxi is not necessary as San Sebastián is extremely pedestrian-friendly with good public transportation to boot. However, there were a few instances where we dined at restaurants outside of the core city so a taxi was necessary to get there (and restaurant staff were extremely helpful in arranging a ride back as well).
Airport Transportation
When flying into San Sebastián, you have two airport options:
- Bilbao Airport (BIO)
- San Sebastián Airport (EAS)
Each time, I’ve flown into BIO, which is about 1h15 minutes from the heart of San Sebastián; if you take a taxi, it can cost upward of 250-400 euros. I recommend taking the Pesa bus from the airport, which will drop you off at the bus depot in the center of the city. And it’s only 12.50 euros/pp (one way). There’s one brief stop in the middle but you’ll be in town roughly the same time it would take if you used a taxi.
Where to Eat
Now onto my favorite part!
Pintxos
The food scene in San Sebastián is just marvelous, marked by its predominant pintxos culture.
What are pintxos exactly? According to the San Sebastián tourism website:
“Pintxos were originally a slice of baguette bread piled high with food of any kind. To hold it in place, a cocktail stick, or ‘pintxo’ was used. But that traditional idea has evolved until becoming today’s miniature haute cuisine, flavours elaborated and concentrated into tiny, mouth-watering experiences…”
I ate allllllll the pintxos with each visit – hopping from one restaurant to the next because… well, that’s just what you do in San Sebastián – it’s an activity in and of itself (do you now get why I love this place so much??).
Most eateries have beautiful glass display cases showcasing the pintxos available – all of which are calling to you – from sardines with blueberries and onions (I know, I know. It sounds SUPER weird, but I’m telling you, it was incredible) to jamón serrano and queijo. They’re sights to behold and you can’t go wrong with any of these spots:
- Atari Gastroteka
- This was my very first stop both times I was in San Sebastián; everything I’ve ever had was fantastic: croquettes (they tasted like a beautiful warm hug) and not to mention the short rib and paella are must trys.
- Bar Casa Alcalde
- I loved this lively spot with friendly staff eager to offer their favorite pintxos recommendations; we opted for jamón and Godello wine (a Spanish white variety that’s perfectly refreshing on a summer’s day – more on that here).
- Meson Portaletas
- Don’t miss the fantastic pork tacos here and be sure to wash it down with some sangria too.
- Txepetxa Taberna
- This place stole my heart (and it’s famous for good reason); it’s where we had those sardine and blueberry pintxos I mentioned above. They’ll change your life. Don’t think twice about it; just get ’em.
- Bar Sport
- The baked crab was fabulous and the Basque cheesecake to die for.
AVIOTHIC TIP: Whether you check out these spots or not, my best recommendation is to make your way to the historic Old Town area and just meander. And as you wander, your senses will come alive with the smells of delicious baked bread, fresh seafood sautéing in an abundance of oil and garlic, and charcuterie meats permeating the streets.
Elevated Dining
- Elkano
- This Michelin star restaurant is about a 15 minute drive from San Sebastián proper and well worth the trek for the freshest seafood and the most incredible (and simplest) sautéed tomatoes possibly ever.
- Casa Julian
- Without a doubt, this was the culinary highlight of both trips (yes, it was so good I went again most recently). Galicia (the region of northern Spain) is best known for its high-grade meats and they serve only the best varieties at Casa Julian (FYI, there’s also a location in Madrid). The steaks are the showstopper but the sides are also fantastic like the green salad, sautéed leeks, and the Basque cheesecake are not to be missed. Plus the selection of Spanish wines are out of this world.
For what it’s worth, I haven’t been to Arzak (a 3-star Michelin restaurant) but some friends did and said it was one of their favorite dining experiences in the city.
Drinks
- La Gintoneria Donostiarra | As the name implies, this place is a SOLID choice for good gin drinks.
- Nobu Terrace | Nobu’s second floor bar offers a great wine selection alongside the most peaceful water views.
- La Perla Santa Clara Terrace | Admittedly, this place is an overpriced tourist restaurant but is located right on the water and offers a calming respite from the blistering heat in summer (due to an abundance of umbrellas). The upside is their sangria is pretty darn good.
Breakfasts & Pastries
- Lasai Maitia
- I’ve eaten at this place at least three times over the course of both visits and it never disappointed as a great all-day brunch spot (the eggs and smoked salmon are sublime, as are the juices and smoothies).
- Délices Maiatza
- This spot served up excellent breakfast grub – everything from pancakes to avocado toast and everything in between; it’s also away from touristy spots and felt more authentically local.
- La Issla
- We loved breakfast at this warm and inviting little place where we enjoyed açai and yogurt bowls as well as refreshing green smoothies. The cute décor and breezy tropical vibe was a beautiful way to start our mornings.
- The Loaf
- I got a slice of Basque cheesecake for my husband to bring back home and he devoured it in T-minus 10 seconds… it was that good, he said; they only offer takeaway service (and there are a few locations throughout the city) – you can buy a whole cake or an individual slice, which is perfect.
- Random note: I picked up the cheesecake the day I left and I was struck by the sense of community in this small city. An adorable older man came in to buy his seemingly usual daily bread (as evidenced by the warm and familiar interaction between him and the shopkeeper); I just loved that it wasn’t transactional but clearly one of ritual and connection.
- I got a slice of Basque cheesecake for my husband to bring back home and he devoured it in T-minus 10 seconds… it was that good, he said; they only offer takeaway service (and there are a few locations throughout the city) – you can buy a whole cake or an individual slice, which is perfect.
What to Do
Soak Up the Sun at the Beach
I know the beach is the first stop for most people when visiting San Sebastián and the good news is, you have a few beaches at your disposal, all within a short walking distance of the main town center:
- La Concha Beach (Gros side)
- Zurriola Beach (San Sebastián side)
- Ondaretta Beach (also on the San Sebastián side but located more west)
The beaches were definitely packed both times I went but the further west you go, the quieter the scene. Now, I’m not one for open waters (give me chlorine and a contained pool any day) so I will always prefer/recommend a hotel with a pool (like Hotel Donostia) especially since you get to avoid the crazy summer crowds.
Walk, Walk, & Then Walk Some More
Is there anything more wonderful than wandering the streets of a new (to you) city? That is exactly what I recommend doing in San Sebastián.
Its stunning architecture, beautifully planned public spaces (laid in tile and cobblestone), as well as its shady tree-lined avenues are meant to be discovered. What I love most about this city (aside from the food) is the leisurely pace of life. No one speed walks – rather, they saunter; they savor life the way one does a morsel of Basque cheesecake.
You’re bound to ooh and ahh your way through the town discovering all of its delights. Soak in the culture. Soak in the atmosphere. And catch a football game if you can (I was there when Spain won the EuroCup, which was a blast!).
- Explore Old Town
- Its narrow streets and pintxos restaurants on every corner are the best way to start off your self-guided tour of the city.
- Hike Monte Urgull
- When in Old Town, make your way to Monte Urgull, a small-ish hill at the city’s northern peninsula, adorned with the Sacred Heart statue at the top. You’ll enjoy the most sweeping views of this beautiful Spanish town.
AVIOTHIC TIP: Plan accordingly for your hike up Monte Urgull and wear good walking shoes; there are four paths you can take, some of which are more uneven than others so mind your step!
- Walk Along Plaza España
- Making your way more inland, you’ll enjoy a walk along the Urumea and the two main boulevards that run along it; make note of the ornate light posts on Zurriola Bridge with its decorative sculptures. This street is also a wonderful way to take in the romantic French architecture; I learned that none of the corner buildings have right angles to make walking even more delightful for pedestrians.
- Meander Parque de Cristina Enea
- Located in Gros, it was so lovely seeing the locals walking their dogs and kids in summer camp frolicking around this beautiful green space; there are walking paths, a swan lake, and lovely landscape to take full advantage of.
Other Ideas
The tips above just scratch the surface of all the things you can do in San Sebastián; here are a few more ideas if you’re seeking even more adventure!
- Mount Igeldo | Enjoy the funicular ride up for great sea and city views.
- Excursions | Visit Bilbao (Spain) or Biarritz (France) to immerse yourself further in Basque culture and cuisine (many wine and food tours can be found here).
- San Sebastián Film Festival | Takes place every September and you might have a chance to rub elbows with celebs!
There you have it, folks! I hope you found this helpful. If you’ve been to San Sebastián, leave your favorite spots below. And if you have questions about anything in the article, feel free to email us at info@theaviothic.com.
xoxox
